Most people who visit northern Sardinia stay on the coast. Drive inland for a short while and the island changes: rolling hills, pastures, cork oaks and stone villages. This is Logudoro, and the town of Ozieri is its heart. Here is what we suggest to our guests, to be enjoyed slowly.
Why go inland
The coast is beautiful, and in summer it is busy. Logudoro is the opposite: few tourists, wide views and a way of life still shaped by farming and shepherding. You can reach the sea for a day trip and come back to silence in the evening.
Ozieri, a town built like an amphitheatre
You recognise Ozieri from a distance: its houses climb the sides of the hills and form a natural amphitheatre. The best way to see it is on foot, through steep lanes, stairways and small squares. Look for the Cathedral of the Immacolata and the Grixoni fountain, the town's meeting point.
The San Michele caves and the Ozieri culture
Inside the town there is a cave with a special place in Sardinian history. The pottery and objects found in the San Michele caves were so distinctive that they gave their name to an entire prehistoric civilisation, the Ozieri culture. The finds are shown in the Archaeological Museum, housed in a former convent.
A cave in the middle of town gave its name to one of the oldest civilisations in Sardinia.
Sant'Antioco di Bisarcio
Just outside Ozieri, alone in open countryside, stands the basilica of Sant'Antioco di Bisarcio. It is one of the largest Romanesque churches in Sardinia. Go in the late afternoon, when the stone warms in the light and the plain stretches to the horizon.
What to eat
Three local names to remember: spianata di Ozieri, a thin soft bread; sospiri, small almond sweets wrapped in coloured paper; and copulettas, filled pastries with a sugar glaze.
If you would like to cook as well as taste, our cooking classes cover Sardinian gnocchetti, ravioli and culurgiones. On the estate we also make extra virgin olive oil from our Bosana olives. We do not sell it online, but you can write to us to buy it.
Walks around Logudoro
Logudoro is best seen on foot, and the landscapes change quickly:
- Pattada and Monte Lerno: woods and high trails, the setting of our hike The Breath of Mount Lerron.
- Lake Coghinas, near Tula: level paths by the water and Nuragic sites, as in The Secret of Sa Mandra Manna.
- Monte Santu, between Siligo and Ardara: a circular walk with wide views, which we do on our Monte Santu hike.
When to go and how to get around
Spring and autumn are ideal: mild temperatures and long light. In summer, walk early in the morning or late in the afternoon. You will need a car to move between villages, country churches and trailheads. Museums and sites change their opening hours with the season, so check before you set off.
Where to stay
To live Logudoro at its own pace, stay in the countryside. Sa Domo de s'Olia, our farm stay in Ozieri, sleeps six and has a pool and breakfast included: a quiet base to leave from each morning and come back to at sunset.
