Ask Sardinians when to visit their island and many will say autumn. The summer crowds have gone, the light softens, and the countryside fills with harvests and village festivals. October in particular is a month of balance: still warm enough for the beach, already cool enough for long walks.
The weather in October
In October, daytime temperatures in Sardinia are usually in the low to mid twenties Celsius, with cooler evenings and mornings, especially inland. The sea keeps much of its summer warmth, so swimming is still pleasant for most of the month. The first autumn rains arrive in short showers, often followed by days of clear skies and great visibility.
Inland, where our farm is, mornings can start with mist over the plain that lifts by mid-morning. Pack a light jacket and a jumper for the evenings.
The olive harvest
October and November are olive harvest season. Nets are spread under the trees, olives are picked by hand or with shakers and taken to the mill the same day. The new oil is green, intense and peppery, and tasting it on toasted bread is one of the joys of autumn. On our farm you can take part in the olive harvest on request, or join a walk among the olive trees with a tasting.
Village festivals in the mountains
From September to December, villages in the Barbagia area, in central Sardinia, take turns opening their courtyards and old houses to visitors during Autunno in Barbagia. Craftspeople work in front of you, families cook traditional dishes and the streets fill with music. It is one of the best ways to see the island's living traditions.
Hiking season
After the summer heat, autumn is the ideal time to walk. Trails are dry but not dusty, the air is clear and the woods begin to change colour. Around us you can walk through ancient cork oaks, climb a flat-topped mountain or follow the shore of a lake to a Nuragic site. Our guide to five inland hikes in northern Sardinia has all the details.
In autumn the island slows down, and so do you.
What to eat in autumn
Autumn brings mushrooms, chestnuts in the mountains, the first new oil and the last grapes. It is also the season of hearty dishes: fresh pasta with meat sauces, roasts, aged pecorino. Read our guide to Sardinian food for the dishes worth looking for, and try making culurgiones in our fresh pasta class.
Where to stay
In October many beach hotels close or slow down, while the countryside comes alive. Our farm stay near Ozieri is a quiet base for the harvest, the hills and day trips to the coast, which is about an hour away.
